Tamar Collection
Studio
Stories
The Tamar Collection: Studio Stories
After a four-year hiatus from releasing a new collection, I returned to creating with renewed purpose. The Tamar Collection emerged from that return, born at the Tucson Gem Show and forged through countless bench-side pivots in my Denver studio.
Each piece in this collection is one-of-a-kind. Each creation took me on what I call a "micro-journey", a unique path from raw gemstone to finished work that can never be exactly replicated. These stories document that process: the pivots, the problems-turned-breakthroughs, and the moments when the materials finally told me what they wanted to become.
This collection
is named for Tamar, my first collector, the woman who saw me before the gallery features, before the museum showcases, before the industry recognition. She taught me that jewelry lives beyond metal and stone. In her words, each piece "chose her," calling to parts of her identity that felt "punk-ass and tough" or "graceful and full of bliss." She spoke the language of color, emotion, and intuition, and saw my pieces as personal talismans, memory-keepers, and power statements.
The Tamar Collection embodies that same language. It's for those who want to feel something real every time they put it on.
About This Collection
Design Philosophy: Structured Beauty, Gemstone-Led Process
The Tamar Collection represents a deliberate aesthetic shift in my work, from organic, flowing forms to structured, architectural design.
What defines this collection:
Mosaic-style settings - Gemstones framed like stained glass in handcrafted gold
Articulated joints - Engineering that allows rigid-looking pieces to move with the body
Tailored uniformity - Precise geometric repetition that honors the gemstone's natural shape
Bench-side pivots - Every piece required abandoning the original vision to let the materials lead
The process:
All gemstones were sourced from the Tucson Gem Show in Tucson, Arizona, the largest gem show in the world. Back in my studio, these uncommon stones met real metal, real gravity, and my willingness to pivot. I experimented, assessed, refined, again and again, until each design carried both breath and backbone.
The rhythm of creation: trial by fire (quite literally, armed with my soldering torch), where sketch or intuitive movement becomes sculpture, then extrapolates into functional art.
The philosophy:
I practice what I call "using the whole buffalo." When I source a strand of exceptional gemstones, I honor the entire material by creating companion pieces, cuffs that complete chokers, and earrings that extend the narrative. Not "sets" for the sake of matching, but respect for the material and momentum for the creative process.
Engineering for the Body
How Jewelry Learns to Move With You
Creating sculptural art is one thing; creating sculptural art for the human body is another. The human form is essential in informing my work when creating within negative space.
What looks effortless on the neck is often my most complex work.
The engineering of pieces like the green amethyst collar only worked when every stone had its own frame with precision-drilled holes, and the chains were precisely graduated so the necklace gently "fans out" across the collarbone. Without this exactness, the necklace would droop—because the length of the top chain must be shorter than the others to follow the natural neckline.
The micro-decisions matter:
The millimeters I adjust in the chain length between framed stones
The moment a finer chain unlocks delicate control over drape
The relief when geometry finally turns into grace
The articulated joints that allow rigid metal to flex with your movement
I test, shorten, rehang, and rework until the metal learns the body's contours. It's where craft becomes comfort, and comfort becomes confidence for you, the wearer.
It's a good thing I can test my pieces on myself multiple times during the creation process. If it doesn't work for me, it won't work for you.
What Makes These Stories Matter
The Micro-Journey: Why One-of-a-Kind Design Can Never Be Replicated
As a one-of-a-kind jewelry designer, I don't work with production lines, templates, or repeatable processes. Each piece emerges from:
The specific gemstones I found on that particular sourcing trip
The technical challenges that arose when those stones met metal
The creative pivots required when the original vision failed
The serendipitous discoveries that happened in the struggle
This means no two pieces can ever be the same, even if I wanted to recreate one. The gemstone strand is gone. The creative problem-solving happened in real-time. The micro-journey is complete.
When you own a piece from the Tamar Collection, you're the only person in the world who possesses that exact design, born from that specific material and that singular creative journey.
These stories pull back the curtain on that process. They document the blistered hands, the re-dos that turned to revelations, the moments when a piece finally smiled back at me from the bench.
The Studio Stories
The Green Long Square Gemstone Drop Earrings: When It Finally Flows. The last piece in the collection was the smoothest to make. No recalibrations. No metal fighting back. That ease is not luck; it is the accumulated fluency of every struggle that came before it. These earrings are the confident period at the end of a long, intentional sentence.
The Pastel Gemstone Ear Cuffs: The Mistake That Made It Better. One cuff came out shorter than the other. Instead of starting over, Andrea Li added wire layers to correct the mismatch, and those layers became the structural frame for a gemstone cluster that the original single-wire design could never have supported. No piercing required. No conformity required.
The Gold Long Green Gemstone Y-Drop Necklace: The Illusion of Simplicity. This is the most technically complex piece in the Tamar Collection, and it looks like the simplest. Three chains that must read as one, concealed metal bars curved to match the neck's anatomy, and custom-framed prasiolite cascading in perfect vertical alignment. Elegance distilled from immense complexity.
The Green Long Gemstone Necklace: When the Circle Wouldn't Behave. The sequin chains were supposed to drape horizontally. Gravity disagreed. That failure became two separate necklaces — the original concept reimagined as the Multi-Strand Statement Necklace, and this vertical reinterpretation that two early viewers independently described with the same word: sexy.
The Blue Gemstone Drop Choker: The Devil in the Details. This choker looks simple. It nearly broke me. Shaping heavy-gauge wire to the human neck (which is not a circle), aligning a suspended blue topaz inside a caged U-shape, and orienting every stone flat-side back for comfort, the invisible engineering behind this piece makes its elegance possible.
The Oval Chain Link Drop Gemstone Earrings: The Accidental Alignment. This design was discovered, not planned. Two U-shaped components placed end to end during cleanup revealed an architectural form that paired perfectly with center-drilled aquamarines that had refused to work in every other piece. Sometimes creativity is about noticing the accident.
The Green Long Gemstone Tassel Earrings: My Version of Retail Therapy. While others shop for shoes, Andrea Li chain-scrolls Etsy at midnight searching for distinctive materials. These sequin chain tassel earrings, anchored by faceted green amethyst and shimmering like wearable confetti, were born from one of those late-night sessions. Joy, distilled.
The Topaz Gemstone Drop Earrings: The Art of Not Competing. These earrings were designed with deliberate restraint, with a single blue topaz on each post-and-drop structure, echoing the necklace's language without competing for attention. When your jewelry speaks loudly, companion pieces must know when to listen.
The Pendant Pastel Gemstone Drop Necklace: The Steward, Not the Owner. Some pieces unfold slowly. This necklace resolved only after Andrea Li remembered a set of blue topaz from Tucson that bridged the cluster into a dramatic drop, and a late-stage slice of Australian opal that completed the watery pastel palette during the quiet contemplative stage before release.
The Pastel Gemstone Cuff Bracelet: The Piece That Refused to Quit. This bracelet was never supposed to exist. Born from a leftover gold frame and a stubborn refusal to give up, it features rare Japanese Keshi Akoya pearls, under 1% of harvests, that Andrea Li bought directly off her pearl merchant's neck at the Tucson Gem Show.
The Pastel Gemstone Statement Cuff: A Quiet Rebellion. This asymmetrical cuff was engineered to balance beauty with physics; its width isn't just aesthetic, it's structural. Built with aquamarine, scapolite, blue topaz, and freshwater pearls following a deliberate rule of three, this piece represents a refusal to design for the lowest common denominator.
The Pastel Gemstone Multi-Strand Necklace: When Failure Becomes Two Designs
I built the back of this necklace first, a hidden treasure of opal clusters meant to rest at the nape, then watched my heart sink when the front design completely failed. From that creative wall came three weeks of reconstruction, and from one failed vision, two beautiful designs were born.
The Pink Kunzite Choker: A Wearable Rebellion
This sculptural choker pushed me beyond my technical limits and wasn't designed to sell; it was created for the soul. Born from pure artistic instinct and advanced soldering techniques I had to master in real-time, this piece represents what's possible when you stop asking "will this sell?" and start creating without compromise.
The Green Amethyst Collar: Designing in Three Dimensions
If there's one truth about designing jewelry, it's this: the piece will tell you what it wants to be, if you're patient enough to listen. This green amethyst collar went through three weeks of pivots, abandoning my original vertical pendant concept to discover how a necklace could fan gracefully across the collarbone.
Explore the Collection
The Tamar Collection features pastel gemstones in structured, architectural settings. Each piece is one-of-a-kind and available exclusively through Andrea Li.
Interested in a custom piece inspired by this aesthetic?
I create commissioned work that captures the same structured, mosaic-style approach with gemstones you choose. Learn about custom commissions →