Aquamarine
Gemstone
Guide
From the bench · Andrea Li
The weave behind every aquamarine I set
A note from Andrea Li, who sets aquamarine by hand in her Denver studio.
They told me to hide it. The weave, the web of wire behind every piece where all the connections are made, is the part people called a flaw and wanted me to conceal. I never could. It is the truest thing I make. Every strand is a choice made under tension, and the chaos of it is exactly what holds the beauty in place. That is the throughline in all my work: not chaos avoided but chaos woven, trials survived, then chosen, then turned into something more refined and more beautiful for having been endured.
The front is what the world sees. The weave is where the becoming happens.
The weave is not decoration. It is how I set a stone like aquamarine without ever bringing heat to it. Instead of soldering, I thread wire through each tiny link by hand and cold connect the whole structure, so a torch never comes near the gem. Heat and thermal shock are exactly what you do not want near a set stone, and aquamarine holds a bright, clean cut worth protecting. Every strand you see on the back is a connection made under tension, and that tension is precisely what holds the aquamarine steady on the front.
I built my Glacier collection around aquamarine for that reason. Its cool, watery blue was the whole palette, named for ice and meltwater. Some of the stones were large, simple-cut aquamarine nuggets I found from a favorite vendor at the September gem shows in Denver. They played a quiet supporting role across several pieces before I finally let one be the star of a single cuff. Nothing is hidden and nothing is wasted. What looks like tangle on the back is the thing carrying the beauty on the front, made more refined by the very tension it came through, and you will find it in every piece I make.
This stone is part of my pastel gemstone collection, one-of-a-kind pieces handcrafted in Denver.
Andrea Li
andreali.com
Rare Aquamarines
An Infographic Guide
Santa Maria
Santa Maria de Itabira, Brazil
The most coveted and rare type, prized for a deeply saturated, intense blue and high clarity. Originally from the Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Brazil, the name now applies to any deeply saturated blue aquamarine, whatever its origin.
Santa Maria Africana
Mozambique
Similar to the original Santa Maria, but mined in Mozambique. A vivid, bright, luminous blue.
Espírito Santo
Brazil
Mined in the Espírito Santo region of Brazil and known for a vibrant, bright, sky-blue hue. The classic aquamarine.
Maxixe
Brazil
A very rare, dark to medium blue with a deep indigo cast and a purple undertone. Its color is often unstable and can fade in natural light.
Milky Aquamarine
Opaque to translucent, with a cloudy, milky-blue appearance. Usually cut as a smooth cabochon rather than faceted, often showing a soft silk.
Cat's Eye Aquamarine
Chatoyant
A rare optical effect caused by parallel, needle-like inclusions, creating a single luminous band that resembles a cat's eye. Known as chatoyancy.
Moss Aquamarine
Brazil, Africa, Madagascar
A beryl threaded with web-like, garden-like inclusions, usually from iron trace elements, so no two stones are alike. Translucent to opaque, in shades from light aqua to denim blue to soft sea-green. Mohs 7 to 7.5.
Star Aquamarine
Asterism
Extremely rare stones that display a multi-rayed star of reflected light. The effect, called asterism, is produced by aligned inclusions.
Pedra Azul
Minas Gerais, Brazil
A luminous, saturated sky blue from a specific historic region. Brilliant clarity and brightness.
São Domingos & Boca Rica
Minas Gerais, Brazil
Historical Brazilian sources renowned for producing some of the finest, high-quality vivid aquamarines. Collector's pieces.
Bespoke Gemstones · Rare · Curated
Andrea Li Handcrafted Aquamarine Jewelry
Subverting the traditional stone of tranquility, this collection fuses the icy clarity of AAA-quality aquamarine with the sharp, obsidian-hued edge of hand-cast silver talons and architectural silhouettes. Each handcrafted piece serves as a sophisticated armor, transforming the elemental power of the sea into a bold, unreplicable statement of modern rebellion.
Find a Unique Aquamarine Bracelet
For Your Signature style
Your Next Favorite Aquamarine Necklace
for the Statement Maker to elevate your everyday style
Find Your Dream Aquamarine Earrings
See it in a piece
Aquamarine, anchoring Halo
In Halo, a one-of-a-kind floating choker from the Second Light collection, a substantial aquamarine is diamond-drilled and threaded on multiple wires to anchor the entire gemstone cluster in mid-air. Read the bench story of how the piece came together.
Read the Halo studio story →Gifts · Handmade & One-of-a-Kind
Looking for an aquamarine gift?
Cool, clear, and sea-blue, aquamarine is March’s birthstone, serene enough to suit almost anyone. Each piece is handmade and one-of-a-kind, sculpted by hand in my Denver studio.
Explore the Jewelry Gift Guide →
Discover more about aquamarine stone price, aquamarine stone meaning, aquamarine stone benefits, aquamarine stone properties, and aquamarine stone color.
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Aquamarine, a stunning variety of the mineral beryl, is cherished for its captivating blue-green hue. Its name, derived from the Latin aqua (water) and mare (sea), beautifully reflects its resemblance to the tranquil shades of ocean waters.
Known for its calming and protective qualities, aquamarine has long been a favorite for jewelry like necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. The gemstone’s near-transparent clarity often gives it a mesmerizing, shimmering effect, as if sunlight were dancing on the water’s surface.
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Aquamarine is valued based on several important factors, each contributing to its overall worth and appeal:
Color: Deep blue aquamarines command the highest prices. Although paler hues are still admired, stones with rich, saturated tones are rarer and more valuable.
Clarity: Most aquamarines have excellent clarity. Stones that are free from internal flaws or inclusions are considered more valuable, as their transparency enhances the gem’s natural brilliance.
Cut: A well-executed cut can significantly elevate the beauty of an aquamarine. Lapidaries often choose cuts like oval, emerald, or pear to maximize the stone's brilliance. For example, aquamarine drop earrings with expertly cut stones offer a dazzling display of light and color.
Carat Weight: Larger aquamarines typically command higher prices, but it’s the balance between color, clarity, and size that truly defines the stone’s value. Whether you're investing in a statement aquamarine necklace or a more delicate aquamarine bracelet, size alone doesn't determine value—quality is key.
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Yes, many aquamarines undergo heat treatment to enhance their color, turning naturally greenish or yellowish stones into the desirable blue shades. This process is quite common in the gemstone industry and widely accepted.
It’s important to note that treatment does not diminish the stone's durability or beauty, so whether your aquamarine hoop earrings are treated or untreated, they will retain their natural charm. If you prefer untreated stones, however, make sure to verify their authenticity with a trusted jeweler.
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There are a few ways to confirm if your aquamarine is genuine.
Inspect the stone for clarity and color—real aquamarines usually have a subtle blue hue and a transparent, clean appearance.
Avoid stones that seem overly vibrant, as that could indicate synthetic materials.
Perform a scratch test; aquamarine ranks between 7.5-8 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it resistant to scratches from most materials.
When in doubt, consult a certified gemologist who can verify the authenticity of your aquamarine jewelry, whether it's a necklace, bracelet, or earrings.
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Keeping your aquamarine jewelry in pristine condition is simple with proper care:
Cleaning: Use warm, soapy water and a soft brush to gently clean your aquamarine necklace or earrings. Harsh chemicals should be avoided, as they may damage the stone’s delicate surface.
Storing: To prevent scratches, store your aquamarine jewelry separately from harder stones like diamonds. Soft pouches or lined jewelry boxes work well for storing aquamarine and pearl earrings or your favorite aquamarine bracelet.
Protection: Avoid prolonged exposure to high heat or direct sunlight, which can cause your aquamarine jewelry to fade over time. Always remove your pieces before engaging in activities that could expose them to harsh conditions.
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The color of aquamarine can range from pale blue to a vibrant blue-green, depending on the amount of iron present in the stone.
Lighter shades are more common, but darker, more intense colors are rarer and, therefore, more valuable.
This natural color variation makes each aquamarine necklace or bracelet unique, offering a spectrum of hues that appeal to different tastes.
Whether you prefer a soft, sky-blue aquamarine or a bold, deep blue-green, there’s a shade for everyone.
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When a gemstone is labeled "AAA-quality," it signifies the highest possible grade in terms of color, clarity, and cut.
AAA-quality aquamarines have no visible inclusions, display a rich blue color, and are expertly cut to maximize their brilliance.
Choosing AAA-quality aquamarine drop earrings or an aquamarine bracelet means you’re investing in a piece that showcases the finest qualities of this exquisite gemstone.
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Aquamarine jewelry is available in a variety of timeless and trendy designs, making it a versatile choice for any occasion:
Classic: Single-stone aquamarine necklaces in simple gold or silver settings are perfect for adding a touch of elegance to your everyday look.
Trending: Aquamarine and pearl earrings offer a striking combination of soft blue tones and lustrous pearls, creating a visual contrast that’s both chic and modern. Additionally, aquamarine hoop earrings are gaining popularity for their sleek, contemporary appeal.
Statement Pieces: For those who love bold jewelry, an aquamarine bracelet—whether in cuff form or paired with other gemstones—can make a dramatic statement. These pieces are perfect for turning heads and adding a splash of color to your ensemble.