ANDREA LI

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AquamarineGemstone Guide

A model in profile with a sculpted blonde updo, wearing a gold wire necklace clustered with pale blue aquamarines

The Guide

The Aquamarine Guide

Discover the serene beauty of March's birthstone

01

A Gem of the Sea

Aquamarine, from the Latin aqua marina meaning "water of the sea," captures the ethereal essence of ocean waters in crystalline form. This precious beryl variety has enchanted humanity for millennia with its tranquil blue-green hues.

As March's birthstone and a symbol of the 19th wedding anniversary, aquamarine carries deep significance for those who wear it. Its clarity and cool tones evoke feelings of peace, making it a treasured choice for fine jewelry.

Found in pegmatite deposits across Brazil, Nigeria, Madagascar, and Pakistan, each aquamarine holds within it the geological story of our planet's deep earth processes.

Illustration of an emerald-cut aquamarine in clear sea blue
02

Physical Properties

Chemical Composition

Be₃Al₂Si₆O₁₈

Beryllium aluminum silicate

Crystal System

Hexagonal

Six-sided prismatic crystals

Hardness

7.5–8 Mohs

Excellent durability for jewelry

Specific Gravity

2.68–2.74

Moderate density

Refractive Index

1.577–1.583

Moderate brilliance

Cleavage

Indistinct

Conchoidal fracture

Optical Characteristics

Aquamarine displays weak pleochroism, showing near-colorless to light blue and deeper blue when viewed from different angles. The finest specimens exhibit exceptional transparency with minimal inclusions, though characteristic features may include long hollow tubes known as "rain" inclusions.

03

How Aquamarine Forms

1

Magmatic Origin

Aquamarine crystallizes in pegmatite veins, coarse-grained igneous rocks formed from the final stages of magma cooling.

2

Slow Crystallization

Over millions of years, beryllium-rich fluids slowly cool within rock cavities, allowing large, well-formed crystals to develop.

3

Iron Coloration

Trace amounts of iron (Fe²⁺ and Fe³⁺) substitute for aluminum in the crystal structure, creating the signature blue-green hues.

Notable Deposits

Brazil

Minas Gerais produces the world's finest specimens, including the legendary "Martha Rocha" crystal weighing over 34 kg.

Pakistan

The Shigar Valley yields exceptional sky-blue crystals prized by collectors and jewelers alike.

Madagascar

Known for producing saturated blue stones with excellent clarity.

Nigeria

Emerging source of high-quality aquamarines with intense coloration.

04

Meaning & Symbolism

A stone of courage and serenity, aquamarine has long been believed to calm waves and keep sailors safe.

01

Tranquility & Peace

Aquamarine is believed to bring calm to turbulent emotions, soothing stress and quieting the mind. Its connection to water symbolizes the flow of peace and understanding.

02

Love & Fidelity

Traditionally given as a gift to brides, aquamarine symbolizes a happy marriage and everlasting love. It represents trust, harmony, and the deep bonds between partners.

03

Courage & Protection

Ancient mariners wore aquamarine for protection at sea. Today, it's considered a stone of courage, helping one speak their truth and overcome fears with grace.

04

Clarity & Insight

Associated with clear thinking and enhanced intuition, aquamarine is thought to sharpen the intellect and reveal hidden truths, making it a stone of wisdom.

05

A Storied Past

  1. Ancient World

    Greek & Roman Era

    Greeks associated aquamarine with Poseidon. Romans believed it absorbed the atmosphere of young love, making it a treasured engagement gift.

  2. Medieval Period

    Protective Talisman

    Medieval Europeans believed aquamarine could reawaken married love and protect soldiers in battle. It was also used in divination practices.

  3. Renaissance

    Royal Adornment

    European nobility prized aquamarine for its clarity and color. It became a symbol of youth, hope, and good health in aristocratic circles.

  4. Modern Era

    Art Deco & Beyond

    The 1936 coronation of Queen Elizabeth featured a stunning aquamarine tiara. Today, it remains a favorite of designers from Tiffany to Cartier.

06

Natural Color Spectrum

Aquamarine's color ranges from pale, almost colorless blue to rich, saturated blue-green. The most prized specimens exhibit a pure, medium-dark blue without green modifiers.

Illustration of a faceted pale blue aquamarine, near-colorless icy blue

Pale Blue

Light saturation

Illustration of a faceted sky blue aquamarine, clear light blue

Sky Blue

Classic hue

Illustration of a faceted Santa Maria aquamarine, deep saturated pure blue

Santa Maria

Most prized

Illustration of a faceted blue-green aquamarine, sea blue leaning teal

Blue-Green

Teal undertones

Illustration of a faceted deep blue aquamarine, dark rich blue

Deep Blue

Richly saturated

Understanding Color Value

Heat Treatment

Most aquamarines undergo gentle heat treatment (400-450°C) to remove greenish-yellow tones, enhancing the pure blue color. This is a permanent, stable treatment accepted industry-wide.

The "Santa Maria" Standard

Named after the Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Brazil, this term describes the most desirable aquamarine color, a deeply saturated, vivid blue without green modifiers.

Illustrations of each variety, not photographs of specific stones.

07

Caring for Your Aquamarine

Do

  • Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush
  • Store separately in a soft cloth pouch
  • Remove before strenuous activities
  • Use ultrasonic cleaners (if no inclusions)
  • Have settings checked annually by a jeweler

Don't

  • Expose to prolonged direct sunlight
  • Use harsh chemicals or abrasives
  • Subject to sudden temperature changes
  • Store with harder gemstones (diamonds, sapphires)
  • Wear while using household cleaners

Professional Care Tips

While aquamarine is relatively durable (7.5-8 on the Mohs scale), proper care ensures your piece remains beautiful for generations. The stone's color can fade with prolonged sun exposure, so store pieces away from windows.

For pieces with significant inclusions, avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners. Instead, opt for gentle hand cleaning with lukewarm water and mild soap. Pat dry with a lint-free cloth.

08

Color Psychology

The blue-green spectrum of aquamarine triggers specific psychological and emotional responses, making it more than just a beautiful stone, it's a tool for wellbeing.

01

Calming Effect

Blue tones are scientifically proven to lower heart rate and reduce anxiety. Aquamarine's cool hues activate the parasympathetic nervous system, promoting relaxation and mental clarity.

02

Communication Enhancement

Associated with the throat chakra, aquamarine's blue energy is believed to improve self-expression and honest communication. Many public speakers and performers wear it for confidence.

03

Trust & Dependability

In color psychology, blue conveys trustworthiness and reliability. Wearing aquamarine can subconsciously communicate these qualities to others in professional and personal settings.

04

Creativity & Flow

The blend of blue and green in aquamarine represents the meeting of logic (blue) and growth (green). This balance is thought to enhance creative thinking while maintaining focus.

09

Styling Aquamarine Jewelry

Metal Pairings

White Gold & Platinum

The classic choice, cool metals enhance aquamarine's icy brilliance

Yellow Gold

Creates warm contrast, perfect for vintage-inspired pieces

Rose Gold

Modern and romantic, the pink tones add feminine warmth

Occasions & Outfits

Everyday Elegance

Small studs or delicate pendants pair beautifully with neutral basics, white shirts, cream knits, navy blazers.

Professional Settings

Understated aquamarine adds sophistication without distraction. Opt for geometric cuts in simple settings.

Evening & Events

Statement cocktail rings or chandelier earrings in aquamarine complement both black-tie and cocktail attire.

Color Coordination Guide

Complementary

Coral, peach, warm terracotta

Analogous

Blues, teals, seafoam greens

Neutral

White, gray, black, navy

Explore Our Collection

Earrings

  • Aquamarine earrings

    Aquamarine earrings

  • Aquamarine earrings

    Aquamarine earrings

  • Aquamarine hoop earrings

    Aquamarine hoop earrings

  • Aquamarine hoop earrings

    Aquamarine hoop earrings

  • Aquamarine silver talon earrings

    Aquamarine silver talon earrings

  • Aquamarine zircon earrings

    Aquamarine zircon earrings

  • Blue aquamarine herkimer diamond earrings

    Blue aquamarine herkimer diamond earrings

  • Blue zircon chandelier earrings

    Blue zircon chandelier earrings

  • Larimar aquamarine earrings

    Larimar aquamarine earrings

  • Pearl earrings

    Pearl earrings

Necklaces

  • Aquamarine and silver talon choker necklace

    Aquamarine and silver talon choker necklace

  • Aquamarine herkimer diamond necklace

    Aquamarine herkimer diamond necklace

  • Aquamarine necklace

    Aquamarine necklace

  • Aquamarine zircon necklace

    Aquamarine zircon necklace

  • Herkimer and aquamarine long necklace

    Herkimer and aquamarine long necklace

  • Herkimer and aquamarine necklace

    Herkimer and aquamarine necklace

  • Herkimer aquamarine necklace

    Herkimer aquamarine necklace

  • Larimar and aquamarine necklace

    Larimar and aquamarine necklace

  • Long multi-chain aquamarine necklace

    Long multi-chain aquamarine necklace

  • Pearl and aquamarine necklace

    Pearl and aquamarine necklace

Bracelets

  • Aquamarine bracelets

    Aquamarine bracelets

  • Aquamarine bracelets

    Aquamarine bracelets

  • Aquamarine bracelets

    Aquamarine bracelets

  • Aquamarine bracelets

    Aquamarine bracelets

  • Aquamarine bracelets

    Aquamarine bracelets

The Aquamarine Guide

From the bench · Andrea Li

The weave behind every aquamarine I set

A note from Andrea Li, who sets aquamarine by hand in her Denver studio.

They told me to hide it. The weave, the web of wire behind every piece where all the connections are made, is the part people called a flaw and wanted me to conceal. I never could. It is the truest thing I make. Every strand is a choice made under tension, and the chaos of it is exactly what holds the beauty in place. That is the throughline in all my work: not chaos avoided but chaos woven, trials survived, then chosen, then turned into something more refined and more beautiful for having been endured.

The front is what the world sees. The weave is where the becoming happens.

The weave is not decoration. It is how I set a stone like aquamarine without ever bringing heat to it. Instead of soldering, I thread wire through each tiny link by hand and cold connect the whole structure, so a torch never comes near the gem. Heat and thermal shock are exactly what you do not want near a set stone, and aquamarine holds a bright, clean cut worth protecting. Every strand you see on the back is a connection made under tension, and that tension is precisely what holds the aquamarine steady on the front.

I built my Glacier collection around aquamarine for that reason. Its cool, watery blue was the whole palette, named for ice and meltwater. Some of the stones were large, simple-cut aquamarine nuggets I found from a favorite vendor at the September gem shows in Denver. They played a quiet supporting role across several pieces before I finally let one be the star of a single cuff. Nothing is hidden and nothing is wasted. What looks like tangle on the back is the thing carrying the beauty on the front, made more refined by the very tension it came through, and you will find it in every piece I make.

An Infographic Guide

Rare Aquamarines

Santa Maria aquamarine in deeply saturated intense blue

Santa Maria

Santa Maria de Itabira, Brazil

The most coveted and rare type, prized for a deeply saturated, intense blue and high clarity. Originally from the Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Brazil, the name now applies to any deeply saturated blue aquamarine, whatever its origin.

Santa Maria Africana aquamarine in vivid electric blue

Santa Maria Africana

Mozambique

Similar to the original Santa Maria, but mined in Mozambique. A vivid, bright, luminous blue.

Espirito Santo aquamarine in pure sky blue

Espírito Santo

Brazil

Mined in the Espírito Santo region of Brazil and known for a vibrant, bright, sky-blue hue. The classic aquamarine.

Maxixe aquamarine in deep indigo blue with a purple undertone

Maxixe

Brazil

A very rare, dark to medium blue with a deep indigo cast and a purple undertone. Its color is often unstable and can fade in natural light.

Milky aquamarine with a soft cloudy blue texture

Milky Aquamarine

Opaque to translucent, with a cloudy, milky-blue appearance. Usually cut as a smooth cabochon rather than faceted, often showing a soft silk.

Cat's eye aquamarine cabochon with a single band of light

Cat's Eye Aquamarine

Chatoyant

A rare optical effect caused by parallel, needle-like inclusions, creating a single luminous band that resembles a cat's eye. Known as chatoyancy.

Moss aquamarine with web-like green mineral inclusions

Moss Aquamarine

Brazil, Africa, Madagascar

A beryl threaded with web-like, garden-like inclusions, usually from iron trace elements, so no two stones are alike. Translucent to opaque, in shades from light aqua to denim blue to soft sea-green. Mohs 7 to 7.5.

Star aquamarine cabochon showing a six-rayed star

Star Aquamarine

Asterism

Extremely rare stones that display a multi-rayed star of reflected light. The effect, called asterism, is produced by aligned inclusions.

Pedra Azul aquamarine in luminous saturated sky blue

Pedra Azul

Minas Gerais, Brazil

A luminous, saturated sky blue from a specific historic region. Brilliant clarity and brightness.

Sao Domingos and Boca Rica aquamarines in vivid blue

São Domingos & Boca Rica

Minas Gerais, Brazil

Historical Brazilian sources renowned for producing some of the finest, high-quality vivid aquamarines. Collector's pieces.

Bespoke Gemstones · Rare · Curated

Wear it

Cut for the light, and no two alike.

Unique aquamarine jewelry →

Andrea Li Handcrafted Aquamarine Jewelry

Subverting the traditional stone of tranquility, this collection fuses the icy clarity of AAA-quality aquamarine with the sharp, obsidian-hued edge of hand-cast silver talons and architectural silhouettes. Each handcrafted piece serves as a sophisticated armor, transforming the elemental power of the sea into a bold, unreplicable statement of modern rebellion.

Necklaces
Aquamarine collar necklace by Andrea Li

Your Next Favorite Aquamarine Necklace

for the Statement Maker to elevate your everyday style

One of a Kind · Built Once

Shop Aquamarine Necklaces

See it in a piece

Aquamarine, anchoring Halo

In Halo, a one-of-a-kind floating choker from the Second Light collection, a substantial aquamarine is diamond-drilled and threaded on multiple wires to anchor the entire gemstone cluster in mid-air. Read the bench story of how the piece came together.

Read the Halo studio story →

Gifts · Handmade & One-of-a-Kind

Looking for an aquamarine gift?

Cool, clear, and sea-blue, aquamarine is March’s birthstone, serene enough to suit almost anyone. Each piece is handmade and one-of-a-kind, sculpted by hand in my Denver studio.

Explore the Jewelry Gift Guide →

Discover more about aquamarine stone price, aquamarine stone meaning, aquamarine stone benefits, aquamarine stone properties, and aquamarine stone color.

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Frequently Asked Questions

About Aquamarine

What is Aquamarine?

Aquamarine, a stunning variety of the mineral beryl, is cherished for its captivating blue-green hue. Its name, derived from the Latin aqua (water) and mare (sea), beautifully reflects its resemblance to the tranquil shades of ocean waters. 

Known for its calming and protective qualities, aquamarine has long been a favorite for jewelry like necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. The gemstone’s near-transparent clarity often gives it a mesmerizing, shimmering effect, as if sunlight were dancing on the water’s surface.

How is Aquamarine Valued?

Aquamarine is valued based on several important factors, each contributing to its overall worth and appeal:

  • Color: Deep blue aquamarines command the highest prices. Although paler hues are still admired, stones with rich, saturated tones are rarer and more valuable.

  • Clarity: Most aquamarines have excellent clarity. Stones that are free from internal flaws or inclusions are considered more valuable, as their transparency enhances the gem’s natural brilliance.

  • Cut: A well-executed cut can significantly elevate the beauty of an aquamarine. Lapidaries often choose cuts like oval, emerald, or pear to maximize the stone's brilliance. For example, aquamarine drop earrings with expertly cut stones offer a dazzling display of light and color.

  • Carat Weight: Larger aquamarines typically command higher prices, but it’s the balance between color, clarity, and size that truly defines the stone’s value. Whether you're investing in a statement aquamarine necklace or a more delicate aquamarine bracelet, size alone doesn't determine value, quality is key.

Are Aquamarines Treated?

Yes, many aquamarines undergo heat treatment to enhance their color, turning naturally greenish or yellowish stones into the desirable blue shades. This process is quite common in the gemstone industry and widely accepted. 

It’s important to note that treatment does not diminish the stone's durability or beauty, so whether your aquamarine hoop earrings are treated or untreated, they will retain their natural charm. If you prefer untreated stones, however, make sure to verify their authenticity with a trusted jeweler.

How Can I Tell If My Aquamarine Is Real?

There are a few ways to confirm if your aquamarine is genuine. 

  • Inspect the stone for clarity and color, real aquamarines usually have a subtle blue hue and a transparent, clean appearance. 

  • Avoid stones that seem overly vibrant, as that could indicate synthetic materials. 

  • Perform a scratch test; aquamarine ranks between 7.5-8 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it resistant to scratches from most materials. 

When in doubt, consult a certified gemologist who can verify the authenticity of your aquamarine jewelry, whether it's a necklace, bracelet, or earrings.

What Are the Best Ways to Care for Aquamarine Jewelry?

Keeping your aquamarine jewelry in pristine condition is simple with proper care:

  • Cleaning: Use warm, soapy water and a soft brush to gently clean your aquamarine necklace or earrings. Harsh chemicals should be avoided, as they may damage the stone’s delicate surface.

  • Storing: To prevent scratches, store your aquamarine jewelry separately from harder stones like diamonds. Soft pouches or lined jewelry boxes work well for storing aquamarine and pearl earrings or your favorite aquamarine bracelet.

  • Protection: Avoid prolonged exposure to high heat or direct sunlight, which can cause your aquamarine jewelry to fade over time. Always remove your pieces before engaging in activities that could expose them to harsh conditions.

Why Do Some Aquamarines Appear Different in Color?

The color of aquamarine can range from pale blue to a vibrant blue-green, depending on the amount of iron present in the stone. 

Lighter shades are more common, but darker, more intense colors are rarer and, therefore, more valuable. 

This natural color variation makes each aquamarine necklace or bracelet unique, offering a spectrum of hues that appeal to different tastes. 

Whether you prefer a soft, sky-blue aquamarine or a bold, deep blue-green, there’s a shade for everyone.

What Does "AAA-Quality" Mean in Aquamarines?

When a gemstone is labeled "AAA-quality," it signifies the highest possible grade in terms of color, clarity, and cut. 

AAA-quality aquamarines have no visible inclusions, display a rich blue color, and are expertly cut to maximize their brilliance. 

Choosing AAA-quality aquamarine drop earrings or an aquamarine bracelet means you’re investing in a piece that showcases the finest qualities of this exquisite gemstone.

Popular Designs for Aquamarine Jewelry

Aquamarine jewelry is available in a variety of timeless and trendy designs, making it a versatile choice for any occasion:

  • Classic: Single-stone aquamarine necklaces in simple gold or silver settings are perfect for adding a touch of elegance to your everyday look.

  • Trending: Aquamarine and pearl earrings offer a striking combination of soft blue tones and lustrous pearls, creating a visual contrast that’s both chic and modern. Additionally, aquamarine hoop earrings are gaining popularity for their sleek, contemporary appeal.

  • Statement Pieces: For those who love bold jewelry, an aquamarine bracelet, whether in cuff form or paired with other gemstones, can make a dramatic statement. These pieces are perfect for turning heads and adding a splash of color to your ensemble.

Have a vision for a custom aquamarine piece? Andrea would love to bring it to life.

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