ANDREA LI

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runway shows

Unfolding: A Runway Collection Cut From Light

Creative CollabsAndrea Li

I made this one to answer to nothing but the runway. No price point, no bestseller logic, no thought of what would sell. Just presence, and light, and a room full of people who wanted to build something memorable together and a moment of legacy for each creative collaborator.

Most of my work is made to be worn out into someone's life. Unfolding was different. I built it to be unrestrained from commercial intent, to be a runway-worthy collection with real presence and cohesion, the kind of thing that exists purely to be seen under the lights for a few unforgettable minutes. It was the most technical collection I have ever made, and it was pure play.

Making something the shop would never ask for

It started as shapes. I drew vector forms in Illustrator and brought them to a company that laser-cuts plexiglass. They had sheets in every color, and I chose a palette of purples, grays, clear, and blues, with a couple of wild cards, neon yellow and pink, that I suspected might be UV-reactive. I was right about that, and it changed everything later.

Then came the tedious part nobody sees. Each cut sheet arrives wrapped in a protective film, and peeling it off six panels, each with around seventy shapes laser-cut into it, meant picking at every edge with my fingernail until I could catch enough to lift it. It took patience I did not always feel like I had.

Once the pieces were free, the real building began. I set up a Dremel on a hand press with a tiny drill bit and drilled holes into the plexiglass so I could thread sterling silver headpins through and invent my own riveting process, layer over layer. Between the layers I set Swarovski crystals, which held the shapes apart and gave each piece a multidimensional, sculpted depth. The result looked almost alien, like something out of a science-fiction film, and the crystals and vintage components I wove in gave it a high-wattage sparkle built to catch the runway lights.

Unfolding lookbook intro with a model veiled in translucent fabric and a close-up of a blue-purple sculptural statement necklace.
Lookbook spread featuring two models in sculptural blue jewelry beside close-ups of a crystal plexiglass cuff and matching earrings.
Fashion spread featuring a tattooed model in a teal sculptural gown beside a blue crystal cuff with gold fringe and plexiglass details.
Unfolding lookbook spread with a model in a teal dress surrounded by blue crystal earrings, necklace, and a sculptural plexiglass cuff.
Unfolding lookbook spread featuring a veiled model with blue lipstick and sculptural purple, blue, and green crystal jewelry.
Translucence lookbook spread featuring a model in teal beside a layered blue, purple, and crystal plexiglass statement necklace.
Unfolding fashion spread featuring a tattooed model in a teal sculptural gown with layered blue jewelry and purple plexiglass earrings.
Lookbook spread showing a model wrapped in translucent fabric wearing a sculptural blue, purple, and green crystal necklace.
Lookbook spread featuring a model in a silver cutout gown with a black sculptural necklace and matching crystal earrings.
Lookbook spread featuring a model with blue eye makeup wearing a black sculptural cuff beside a close-up of its crystal-studded braceletdesign.

That was the whole point. The collection was extremely technical, but it was beauty for the sake of beauty, made with the kind of presence that would be unmistakable the moment it walked.

The Fillmore, and a painting called Femalien

Unfolding walked two of the biggest nights of my life. The first was the Alien Life Fashion Show, my first year in it, and its biggest installment yet: ten designers, more than thirty looks, hosted by Knew Conscious Gallery at the Fillmore, Denver's largest indoor venue, to a sold-out crowd of over three thousand people.

The concept is what makes that show special. Each designer builds a collection in response to one of Kurt Redeker's original paintings. Mine was Kurt's Femalien, and the Unfolding pieces were made to answer it.

Abstract neon artwork with mirrored turquoise, blue, and purple waves radiating from a bright central glow against a dark background.

Kurt Redeker's original painting Femalien

I got to pair my work with a local couture designer, Maggie Burns, who had just won 303 Magazine's Designer of the Year. I still remember our first coffee to talk about the collaboration, the instant connection and shared vision. Her final looks exceeded everything I had pictured.

Photo credits Teddy Gomez of Xposer Magazine 

The team for that show was hand-curated, and it let me work with talent I never had before. KJ Murphy led the hair with beautifully experimental looks. Corrine handled detail work and the best braiding I have ever seen. Nicole Marie and Bubz Medina worked their makeup wizardry until my models looked genuinely otherworldly. And the runway itself belonged to Denver's best: Karly Porter, Stephanie Manor, Masha Pichugina, and Lesia Bankston, seasoned professionals who endure long rehearsals and grueling hair and makeup sessions and never stop smiling. They always make me look good.

Behind the scenes photos for the Alien Life Fashion Show. Sources: Robin Fulton — VoyageDenver · Suzanne Simone — Poshtography

City Hall, a hundred dollars a minute, and the dark

The second night was the RAW artists’ showcase at Denver's City Hall, a sold-out crowd that the organization later called the biggest showcase success it had ever had across all its cities.

That one nearly went differently. We had planned to project onto a screen for my segment, but when we arrived, the venue had set up a massive LED screen for a major act playing the next night. My husband Kris, who directed our segment and created all of the visual content that played across that screen, went and found the tech crew in charge and, after some convincing, talked them into renting it to us for a hundred dollars a minute. It was worth every penny. His visuals turned our segment, the last of the night, into the one that defined the whole event, written up afterward in the follow-up coverage.

For that show, my friend Dawn Yukus made one-of-a-kind cut-out white tee-shirt designs unique to each model, paired with skinny white jeans, so my pieces could sing in their featured role. Mel built dramatic runway makeup that mirrored the colors in the collection, and on the models wearing the UV-reactive pieces, she used UV-reactive makeup too.

Then came the part no one had seen before. For the very last segment, I sent my models down the runway carrying black-light flashlights, and the pieces at their necks, ears, and wrists lit up and glowed in the dark. It was a complete crowd-pleaser. Nobody had seen anything like it.

Neon fashion spread showing a mirrored model in UV makeup wearing fluorescent orange, teal, and purple sculptural jewelry.
UV fashion spread featuring a model in neon makeup wearing fluorescent orange and teal sculptural necklace, earrings, and cuff.
Black-light fashion spread featuring a model with neon makeup wearing a glowing sculptural cuff beside a fluorescent jewelry close-up.

Seven minutes, months in the making

Here is the thing I most want you to understand about Unfolding, and about all of it. Those two shows were, between them, maybe fourteen minutes of runway. They took months of drawing, cutting, peeling, drilling, riveting, planning, and rehearsing. And no one did it for money.

I have a behind-the-scenes video from those nights that captures it better than I can: a busy backstage full of models and makeup and hair artists, and family and friends, everyone building toward the same seven minutes.

That is what the technical madness was really for. It was a reason to bring my creative fashion family together, a community working on a shared vision, each person contributing their own artistic gift.

The pieces were made for the runway, not the shop. But the runway was never really the point either. The people were.

This is one chapter of a larger story I told in The Creative Family. Every artist who built these nights with me is named on my Creative Credits page.

Questions

What is the Unfolding collection made of?
Each piece is built from laser-cut plexiglass in shades of purple, gray, clear, and blue, layered and riveted together with sterling silver headpins. I set Swarovski crystals between the layers for depth and wove in vintage components for sparkle. Every piece is one of a kind.
What makes Unfolding jewelry glow under black light?
Some of the pieces are cut from UV-reactive plexiglass and paired with UV-reactive makeup, so they light up under black light. On the RAW runway, I sent my models down carrying black-light flashlights so the pieces glowed in the dark.
Where was the Unfolding collection shown?
On two Denver runways. It walked the Alien Life Fashion Show at the Fillmore, before a sold-out crowd of more than three thousand, built in response to Kurt Redeker's painting Femalien. It also walked the RAW Artists showcase at City Hall.

Discover

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Take the Style Quiz

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The Creative Family

Creative CollabsAndrea Li
Group portrait of jewelry models and creative collaborators in black and white outfits, wearing bold statement pieces backstage.

For more than a decade, one photographer and a rotating room of makers turned my jewelry into pictures. I want to tell you about them, because the pieces were never the point. They were.

Collage of fashion magazine covers and editorial portraits featuring models styled with dramatic statement jewelry and bold beauty looks.

I found my creative family before I had ever met them in person.

It was a shoot called Haute Trash, for a beauty and fashion magazine called Beauty Underground. I sent my jewelry into a room I wasn't in, and the images came back, and something in me went still and certain. The photographer was Nicole Marcelli. The hair and styling was Charlie Price. I did not know yet that those two names would run through the next ten years of my work like a spine. I only knew, looking at what they had made with my pieces, that I had found my people.

That is the story I actually want to tell. Not the jewelry. The people who helped me photograph it, over and over, in slaughterhouses and galleries and Nicole's living room with three chihuahuas underfoot. Because when I look back at every shoot in this archive, the thing that moves me is not a necklace. It is a room full of makers who all showed up, again and again, to make something beautiful together for no reason other than that we could.

The core of it

I found Nicole by accident. One of my favorite models, Antoinette, posted a shoot on Instagram, and the photography stopped me cold. I asked who shot it. It was Nicole. I reached out, half expecting nothing, and she said yes.

Our first shoot was at an apartment complex with a pool, with a hair and makeup artist Nicole worked with named Mel Akana McIntosh, one of the most talented people I have ever stood beside on a set. That day, with Nicole and Mel and Antoinette and Savanna, an instant coalition formed. It lasted years. To this day, the shoots that team made are my favorite work I have ever been part of.

Most of them happened at Nicole's house. She would let us turn her living room into one enormous studio, laying white panels across the floor so we could roll the big lights anywhere. I was almost always the gaffer, holding up reflector panels, moving lights, waving a fan to catch movement in a model's hair. Those days ran seven hours, sometimes more, and none of it felt like work. It felt like play. We had privacy and time, which are the two things a shoot never gets, and we spent them lavishly.

Editorial portrait of a model wearing sculptural gold and crystal jewelry, with flowing dark hair against a dramatic black background.

Charlie came into my life differently. When I met him, he was at the helm of Beauty Underground, immersed in the North American Hairstyling Awards, doing hair and makeup for runway during Paris Fashion Week. He brought that to Denver and helped build a real fashion scene here, producing some of the biggest shows the city had ever seen. He was already a considerable figure when I was just starting out.

I still remember the day he texted me. People kept saying my name to him, he said. My jewelry was turning up in the art scene, in the local magazines, in national ones. He had been a little skeptical of all the buzz, he admitted, until he saw the work for himself. And when he did, it won him over completely. He reached out to collaborate, and we never really stopped. First he styled my models for other designers' shows, then for shows that were mine, always with an eye for exactly how to let the jewelry lead: solid colors, white, minimal silhouettes, nothing that competed with the work.

Nicole, Charlie, Mel. That was the center. Everything else orbited it.

The era

For a stretch of years, Denver had a fashion scene worth the name, and we were inside it.

We presented to sold-out rooms at City Hall and the Fillmore. The collection I called Unfolding, made of laser-cut and UV-reactive plexiglass, walked two of the biggest nights: a Fillmore show for more than three thousand people, and a City Hall showcase where my husband Kris talked the venue into renting us a massive LED screen for a hundred dollars a minute (worth every penny because the visuals deserved to be seen in that way), and I sent my models down the runway carrying black-light flashlights so the pieces lit up in the dark. Nobody had seen anything like it. That is a night that deserves its own telling, and it will get one.

Mirrored blacklight portrait of a model in neon makeup wearing fluorescent statement jewelry against a deep black background.

But the scene was never really about the big nights. It was about the same faces, over and over. The same hair and makeup artists, the same designers, the same models, coming together for one more production. It felt like family. Every show gave us a reason to gather and make something dazzling.

And here is the part I need you to understand: almost none of it made anyone any money. We created for the act of creation itself, and set financial gain aside to make beauty instead. We threw candy and marshmallows and licorice around Nicole's studio for a shoot we called Gem-O-Licious, just because it sounded fun.

We drove into the mountains at the peak of aspen season and Mel pressed gold foil onto the models to catch the yellow of the trees. We did a whole pool shoot for no reason at all, and I remember Jessica drawing a crowd of very distracted apartment residents while we laughed. We photographed Karly one still winter afternoon with nobody there but the three of us, Karly doing her own makeup, and it was one of the most intimate shoots I ever did.

That model, Jessica Nazarenus, went on to sign with Wilhelmina in New York and shoot for Guess and Harper's Bazaar. Looking back, I realize I was working with world-class talent across the board, and most of us were doing it for love.

The jewelry traveled, too, into rooms I was never in. Charlie would ask to borrow pieces for his own editorials, and they would turn up in Denver Life and in Denver Colorado Luxury Magazine. A young photographer named Gabby Ruddick, whom I met when she was a student at the Art Institute of Colorado, borrowed pieces for a conceptual shoot and has since built a career in New York. A team painted models in black and white for an edgy editorial in Dgaray Timeless Beauty, and my statement pieces slid right in. That is its own kind of gift, watching your work become part of someone else's vision.

There were shoots that took real grit. Twice I dragged an entire team into the dead of a Colorado winter, once to an abandoned tree farm and once around Boulder, changing outfits in the mud and retreating to the car to thaw. My models never let the cold reach their faces. And there were shoots wrapped in other people's genius, like the day we photographed the Orenda collection inside my friend Doug Kacena's gallery, K Contemporary, styled by Vanessa, who owns the boutique Goldyn, and whom, in one of my favorite facts about my own life, I used to babysit as a child.

Each of those has more story in it than a paragraph can hold. I am going to give the richest of them their own posts, one at a time.

The hinge

Then the pandemic came, and for two years, the gathering stopped.

The Denver fashion scene never really recovered. Some designers quit. Many of the models moved to the coasts, where the work is steadier. Charlie stepped back from producing shows, because filling seats had become too hard. Part of me still mourns that era, honestly, because of what it was for. It was the reason a specific group of talented people kept coming back into the same room. When the reason went away, the room emptied.

What survived was the making itself, in smaller forms. Charlie never stopped working. He learned to produce a whole shoot with nothing but himself, a makeup artist, and a model, and he learned to get that work published. Some of us found a more independent way to contribute to fashion, less collaborative but still alive. The family scattered, but it did not disappear.

Still chasing it

I am still looking for the magic of that room.

I have started finding it again, in new people. There is a shoot I recently made with the photographer E J Carr and the couture designer Maggie Burns, and another already scheduled for this October, for my Second Light collection. Different faces, same feeling: everyone reading the same brief and bringing their own craft language to it, until the whole thing coheres. That coherence is never an accident. It is what happens when every maker in the room understands the assignment at the level of material and light, not just a mood board.

I know now what I did not fully know then. The connection was always the point. The dazzling pictures were the beautiful byproduct.

These images are the proof that it was real: that for a stretch of years, in a landlocked city, a group of people who loved to make things made them together, and let my little pieces of jewelry be the excuse. I am more grateful for those people than I am for any single photograph we captured. To Nicole, to Charlie, to Mel, to every model who smiled through the cold and every artist who lent their eye, thank you. My work found its meaning in your hands, and then on the women who wore it home.

That is the whole thing, really. My jewelry was never the story. You were.

Every photographer, hair and makeup artist, stylist, designer, and model who helped make these images is named on my Creative Credits page. Please go see their work.

My pieces are one of a kind, which means finding the right one is a little like the shoots themselves: it is about the match, not the mass of it.

Discover

Jewelry that feels like you.

Two minutes. The quiz tells me how you want jewelry to feel in your life, and the messages that follow walk you through pieces I think you'll love.

Take the Style Quiz

Two minutes. I take it from there.

Stay Close

Love what you see? Keep finding us.

Google now lets you choose your favorite sources so they show up labeled in AI search answers. If you enjoy discovering handcrafted gemstone jewelry here, add Andrea Li Designs and we'll be easier to find next time you search.

Add Andrea Li Designs as a Preferred Source

One click. Works across Google Search, AI Overviews, and AI Mode.