ANDREA LI

LIMITED COLLECTIONS

The Last Kunzite I Had

Tamar: Second LightAndrea Li
Last Light kunzite necklace with a gold paperclip chain, pale purple gemstones, pearls, and editorial text on a white background.

I had one kunzite pendant left, bought from my gem vendor Earthstone, and I knew this was my last chance to use it in the pastel collections.

That is why this piece exists. Not a design idea that needed a stone. A stone that was running out of chances.

I buy what I fall for and then keep designing until each stone has found the one piece it was meant for. Most of the time that works out. Occasionally a stone waits years, and occasionally I get to the end of a collection and realize the waiting is over, one way or the other.

What is actually inside this stone

It is large, pale pink, and finished smooth rather than faceted. Hold it to the light and you can see straight into it, which is the point of a finish like that, and also the risk.

Two things are visible in there. Growth and etch tubes, which are fine parallel channels running through the crystal like needles laid side by side. And healing cracks, sometimes called feathers, which are partial internal fractures that read as faint veils.

Neither is damage. Both are the record of how the crystal grew and what happened to it while it was growing.

Why kunzite is never faceted if you can help it

Kunzite has two directions of perfect cleavage, the same structural weakness that runs through moonstone. Pressure or vibration from faceting can split or splinter it. The stone also resists abrasion, so the heavy friction that faceting requires puts more stress on exactly the internal structures least able to take it.

A smooth finish is gentler. Rolling and polishing distributes pressure evenly instead of concentrating it, which lowers the chance of losing the stone on the lap.

There is an optical reason as well. Kunzite is pleochroic, which means it shows different colors depending on the angle you view it from. A rounded dome lets those shifting pink and violet hues blend softly into each other.

Facets would do two things instead. They lock the color into rigid reflections, and each flat face becomes a window onto every inclusion inside. A smooth surface holds the veils and the tubes in suspension rather than spotlighting them.

I wanted it hung between two chains, not from one

I wanted something different from anything else in the collection, and I kept coming back to the same picture: the stone suspended between two chains dropping in parallel on either side of it, making a clean vertical line.

Which meant the stone needed two sides to attach to. It does not naturally have those.

So I set it into a 24k gold vermeil oval first, folded in half over a dowel with enough space to hold the stone. That gave me a left and a right to wire the chains into, and it turned a pendant into a component.

Studio collage showing the Last Light necklace in progress beside the finished gold chain design with kunzite, pearls, and pastel gems.

Then I edged the oval and grew a cluster off it

Once the stone was secure I edged the vermeil with tiny stones. Pale amethyst, mystic labradorite and moonstone, fifteen and fourteen and seventeen of them respectively, each one wired individually.

Then the cluster. Pink druzy, pink chalcedony, morganite, lavender quartz, rose quartz, pink and purple sapphires, a large flat aquamarine briolette, and Japanese Akoya keshi pearl accents.

This is the part of my work people recognize, and it is the part I do not rush.

The cluster hangs off the stone rather than surrounding it. On a piece built around a vertical line, a cluster that ringed the pendant would have closed the shape and undone the whole idea. So it gathers at one shoulder of the oval and spills from there.

The pattern I scrapped

I knew I wanted to fill the space between the two chains, so I built a pattern of pearls and gemstones to run down it.

I took it out.

Against the scale of the pendant and the weight of those elongated paperclip links, the pattern read as too small and too delicate. It was a fine idea at the wrong size, and keeping it would have made the whole necklace look busier and less certain. The empty run between the chains does more than the pattern did.

Made once, and there is no next one

I chose elongated paperclip chain for the two runs because the links are long enough to carry the linear idea instead of interrupting it.

This is the fourth kunzite piece I have made for the pastel work, after a choker that has since found its person and Alpenglow, whose own kunzite arrived with a single drill hole and had to be set into a crescent. Its matching earrings make four.

This was the last pendant. There is not another one waiting, which is the other reason for the name.

Questions

What are the lines and veils inside a kunzite?
Two common inclusion types. Growth and etch tubes are fine, parallel, needle-like channels running through the crystal structure. Healing cracks, also called feathers, are partial internal fractures or healing planes that look like faint veils. Both are natural records of how the crystal formed, and a smooth cabochon finish holds them in suspension rather than spotlighting them the way flat facets would.
Why is kunzite finished smooth rather than faceted?
Kunzite has two directions of perfect cleavage, so pressure or vibration from faceting can split it, and because the stone resists abrasion the friction of faceting stresses its weakest internal structures. A smooth finish distributes that pressure evenly. Kunzite is also pleochroic, showing different colors by viewing angle, and a rounded dome blends those shifting hues instead of locking them into rigid facet reflections.
Is Last Light one of a kind, and can I commission something similar?
Yes, and in this case there is no way to repeat it even loosely, because it was the last kunzite pendant of its kind I had. If you would like something made in the same spirit with a different stone, you can start a commission through the custom shop.

Discover

Jewelry that feels like you.

Two minutes. The quiz tells me how you want jewelry to feel in your life, and the messages that follow walk you through pieces I think you'll love.

Take the Style Quiz

Two minutes. I take it from there.

Stay Close

Love what you see? Keep finding us.

Google now lets you choose your favorite sources so they show up labeled in AI search answers. If you enjoy discovering handcrafted gemstone jewelry here, add Andrea Li Designs and we'll be easier to find next time you search.

Add Andrea Li Designs as a Preferred Source

One click. Works across Google Search, AI Overviews, and AI Mode.