Sequin Chain Tassel Earrings · Earrings

The stones

Two AAAA rainbow moonstone marquis cabochons with moonstone rondelles, kunzite, pale amethyst, marquis amethyst and clear and opaque pink sapphires, over 14k gold-filled sequin chains hung at staggered lengths.

The two moonstone marquis came off the same strand as the eight in Blue Hour, deliberately, so the moonstones on the earrings mirror the moonstones on the Halo choker rather than merely resembling them.

From the bench

Both clusters were built at the same time as mirror opposites, since a pair is read as a mirrored set rather than two copies. Below each cluster the sequin chains hang at different lengths, each topped with a tiny moonstone, and staggering the lengths is what makes them read as a tassel instead of a fringe. Sequin chain moves differently than link chain, catching light in flat little flashes as it swings, which is the same behavior as the cascade on the choker.

Care

Moonstone is soft. Put them on last and take them off first.

Moonstone Choker · Necklace

The stones

Rainbow moonstone marquise and briolettes, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) in a crown cut, aquamarine, morganite, purple, grey and pink sapphires, pink, grey and purple Herkimer diamonds, mystic quartz, and kunzite, resolving at a focal baroque Akoya pearl, all on a 14k gold-filled base.

The bullet-cut moonstones are carried over from my Femme Fatale collection; the crown-cut mixed beryl beads were new finds I designed the whole choker around.

From the bench

This choker began with rainbow moonstone marquise briolettes that stopped me with their glow, the aura, or adularescence, that comes from light scattering between microscopic layers inside the stone. I built the whole piece to let that light float around the neck: a 14k gold-filled base, a single luminous baroque pearl set at the front tip, and a gemstone cluster twirling up one side like a vine, left deliberately bare on the other for a modern architecture.

Care

Moonstone is a soft stone. Put it on last, take it off first, and keep it from hard knocks so its glow stays.

Moonstone Bullet Arch Earrings · Earrings

The stones

Bullet moonstone, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) in a crown cut, aquamarine briolettes, purple, grey and pink sapphires, Herkimer diamonds, and Akoya keshi pearls, on a 14k gold-filled arch.

From the bench

I make a matching pair for every necklace in a collection, so a set reads as one intentional look worn together or apart. Rather than parrot the choker, I fabricated a gilded 14k gold-filled arch to mirror it and built the cluster to follow the curve, soldering the post toward the center of the arch so each earring curves out along the lobe. A single moonstone bullet hangs at the bottom.

Care

Moonstone is soft. Put it on last and take it off first.

Gold Vermeil Oval Collar · Necklace

The stones

24k gold vermeil oval links, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) crown cut, aquamarine with blue and green topaz, purple, pink and grey sapphires, purple Herkimer diamonds, moonstone in three cuts, mystic labradorite, amethyst, and angel-wing baroque pearls.

The 24k gold vermeil ovals came from a fellow jeweler who retired her best-selling 'Feather Leathers' design and pivoted to engagement rings. I took a number of them off her hands for my one-of-a-kind work.

From the bench

I played with those vermeil ovals until a symmetrical collar emerged, anchored by a center cluster. I built the structure with sturdier stones first, then set the fragile crown-cut beryl individually. When the open ovals looked unfinished, I added baroque pearls shaped like angel wings to extend the cluster outward, then edged a repeating pattern of ovals in mystic labradorite, each framing a single gem.

Care

14k gold-filled and vermeil wear well every day; keep them from perfume and lotion to hold the shine.

Vermeil Oval Baroque Pearl Earrings · Earrings

The stones

A single 24k gold vermeil oval on each earring, edged in tiny purple Herkimer diamonds, with a baroque Akoya pearl suspended in the center.

From the bench

These are the mates to the vermeil oval collar. I edged each oval with tiny sparkling purple Herkimer diamonds and hung a single baroque Akoya pearl in the middle, echoing the detail in the necklace.

Care

Keep vermeil from perfume and lotion so the gold stays bright.

Pearl Chain Lariat · Necklace

The stones

Hand-bailed grey pearl chain, large blue topaz nuggets, aquamarine, moonstone, Australian opal and opal rondelles, lavender quartz, chalcedony, spinel, and purple, grey and pink sapphires, with a 24k gold vermeil oval at the center.

The hand-bailed pearl chain, light grey with a subtle rainbow iridescence, came from the Tucson gem show, the length left over from Fairy Dynamite.

From the bench

This lariat threads through a vermeil oval, with a gemstone cluster integrated to anchor the pearl chain and loop it back through. Once assembled the center hung funny and needed weight to sit straight, so I added two large blue topaz and an aquamarine nugget down the drop, each capped with a single pearl cut from the chain. That unexpected weight was exactly the wow the piece needed.

Care

Pearls are soft. Wipe with a dry cloth, and keep them from perfume and hairspray.

Long Lariat Earrings · Earrings

The stones

The same hand-bailed grey pearl chain as the lariat, with a small crown-cut aquamarine drop, on 14k gold-filled ear wires.

From the bench

The mate to the lariat, kept simple so it echoes the long opera length without competing. A small aquamarine drop accents the minimal design.

Care

Pearls are soft; keep them from perfume and store them apart.

Necklace

The stones

Large simple-cut blue topaz, stacked geometric Australian opal briolettes and opal rondelles, aquamarine in many cuts, fancy-cut and lavender amethyst, moonstone, mystic labradorite, spinel, purple, grey and pink sapphires, and a keshi Akoya pearl, on 24k gold vermeil components and organic pearl chains.

From the bench

The cluster of blue topaz and stacked Australian opals was made for an ear cuff in my last release, too chunky for that frame, so it sat on my desk until it found a home here. The organic pearl chains matched the river-rock structure of the opals and became the inspiration. When the chains felt too heavy I added a gold circle link to bring airiness back, what I call a 'Marilyn,' a single element that breaks the expected.

Care

Opal is delicate and sensitive to moisture loss. Keep it from knocks and heat, and wear it often.

Earrings

The stones

Australian opals, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) crown cut, a teardrop aquamarine anchor, and pearls from the hand-bailed chain, on 14k gold-filled ear wires.

From the bench

The mates to Fairy Dynamite, using the same stacked clustering and pearls from the hand-bailed chain. A teardrop aquamarine anchors each earring for a finished look.

Care

Opal is delicate; keep it from hard knocks and sudden temperature changes.

Green Amethyst Triple Strand · Necklace

The stones

A long simple-cut green amethyst focal with flat green amethyst briolettes, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) crown cut, aquamarine, purple, grey and green sapphires, green topaz, moonstone, and mystic quartz, on 14k gold-filled ovals and chains.

From the bench

This followed the green amethyst hoops, made to use the square 14k gold-filled wire left from the earrings. I fabricated three long ovals, the longest as the drop pendant framing a long green amethyst, the other two flanking the cluster, then ran it on labradorite enamel chain paired with a slightly heavier chain so the three read almost as one. More minimal than the rest of the collection, easy from casual to cocktail hour.

Care

Green amethyst wears well every day; a soft cloth keeps it bright.

Green Amethyst Hoops · Earrings

The stones

A long green amethyst set down the center of each cluster, on hand-fabricated caged 14k gold-filled hoops.

The thin square wire was bought for a production line I ghost-designed for another brand. When that designer took production in-house, I was left with the raw material and gave it a home in my own work.

From the bench

I soldered long ovals and circles into a caged, geometric hoop base, careful that each earring came out identical, then threaded and soldered two large hoops through the base so they read as one. Small mirrored clusters sit on each, a long green amethyst down the center. I wear my designs out to test them, and these turn heads every time.

Care

Green amethyst is durable; store the hoops apart so the polish stays.

Amethyst Stalactite Heavy-Chain · Necklace

The stones

A horizontal amethyst stalactite geode slice with a flat teardrop moss aquamarine drop and a cluster of coordinating pastel gemstones echoing the slice, on a large-link 14k gold-filled chain with a toggle clasp.

The stalactite slices came from the Tucson gem show years ago, on a day I had exhausted my budget and saw them on my way out. I had never seen anything like them and bought a strand; most sat in my drawer until this collection.

From the bench

Amethyst stalactite slices form over millions of years from volcanic activity, banded agate at the core surrounded by radiating purple crystal. I oriented this one horizontally as a bar, wired a 24k gold vermeil structure in place, and built a cluster that seems to grow out of the raw crystal edges, resolving at a single moss aquamarine drop.

Care

The stalactite is a natural slice; keep it from hard knocks. A soft cloth is all it needs.

Amethyst Stalactite Multi-Chain · Necklace

The stones

A down-angled amethyst stalactite slice, green amethyst rectangular drops, mystic labradorite, and a cascading pastel gemstone cluster, on three rows of chevron 14k gold-filled chain.

From the bench

I angled this stalactite downward for variety and set it into folded 24k vermeil circles held by a web of gold-filled wirework. Three rows of chevron chain read as one thick band and waterfall into a triple drop below the pendant. I first anchored the drops in green rutilated stone, found the color too oppressive, and switched to green amethyst that belonged with the softer palette.

Care

Keep the stalactite from knocks; wipe gently with a soft cloth.

Amethyst Stalactite Cuff · Bracelet

The stones

A smaller amethyst stalactite slice, light purple amethyst shield cuts, and two large grey moonstones and two light amethysts framing the cluster, on a hand-fabricated heavy-gauge cuff.

From the bench

My last and smallest stalactite became a cuff instead of a necklace. I fabricated a heavy-gauge frame with a wide, rounded opening for easy wear, set the slice with the same folded-vermeil wire-matrix technique, and let purple amethyst shield cuts jet out to mirror the raw crystal edges. Four large stones threaded through the cuff frame the piece so it reads as one story.

Care

The cuff is sturdy, but the stalactite is natural stone; avoid hard knocks.

Statement Necklace · Necklace

The stones

AAAA rainbow moonstone marquis, graduated by size, with mystic labradorite, aquamarine, and tiny moonstone rondelles hand-wrapped around each frame, smooth aquamarine cabochons and blue topaz between them, and 24k gold vermeil spikes throughout, on a 14k gold-filled beading chain.

The smooth aquamarine cabochons between the frames are from my Glacier stock, finally finding their piece.

From the bench

This is the piece I was least sure would work. I designed the moonstone marquis as wire frames that hook to a second layer, then spent three days engineering how to join them as the necklace curves and narrows toward the neck. Plain chain could not hold the changing spacing, so I set smooth aquamarine cabochons between the frames to prop the design open, and at four in the morning I realized tiny gold vermeil spikes could keep those smooth stones from spinning and become the thread running through the whole piece. I only knew it worked when I set the finishing touches.

Care

Moonstone is 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale, softer than quartz. Wear it for occasions, keep it from hard knocks, and store it on its own.

Earrings · Earrings

The stones

Faceted Swiss blue topaz center with a rainbow moonstone marquis drop, a hand-wrapped halo of rainbow moonstone, mystic labradorite, and aquamarine, and 24k gold vermeil spikes, on 14k gold-filled ear wires.

From the bench

The earrings to wear with Moontide, changed just enough to stand on their own. I centered each on a faceted Swiss blue topaz, a little deeper in blue than the necklace, and echoed the necklace's gold vermeil spikes so the pair clearly belongs to the same piece.

Care

Moonstone is softer than the topaz, so store the pair on its own and keep it from hard knocks.

Pink Kunzite Necklace · Necklace

The stones

A large smooth pink kunzite seated into a folded 24k gold vermeil crescent and edged in tiny mystic labradorite, with kunzite pear briolettes, clear and opaque pink sapphires, purple sapphires, lavender quartz, morganite briolettes, moonstone rondelles and Japanese Akoya keshi pearls, a large baroque pearl with two lavender keshi freshwater pearl drops, and simple-cut aquamarine between the links, all on five hand-bent 12-gauge 14k gold-filled shapes.

From the bench

I usually start with a stone. Alpenglow started in a notebook, with shapes: five links I bent myself on a jig, soldered closed, polished and drilled before a single stone went near them. Kunzite looks almost like a pale pink piece of hard candy, with fine striations running its length that catch light from inside and shimmer at shifting angles as it turns. This one came with a single drill hole at its slimmest point, so it could not be hung. I folded a 24k gold vermeil oval over a wooden dowel until it cradled the stone, wired it in, and edged the exposed curve with mystic labradorite so small it reads as a line before it reads as stones.

Care

Kunzite fades with prolonged exposure to strong light. Wear it, then store it away from a sunny windowsill. A soft cloth and mild soapy water only, never an ultrasonic.

Pale Amethyst Link Bracelet · Bracelet

The stones

Pale amethyst in simple and fancy cuts, lavender quartz, kunzite pear briolettes, morganite, simple-cut aquamarine, clear and opaque pink sapphires, purple sapphires, lavender keshi freshwater pearls and Japanese Akoya keshi pearls, set into seven hand-fabricated 12-gauge 14k gold-filled links and closed with a 24k gold vermeil double-strand clasp.

Pale amethyst, lavender quartz and the stone one vendor sells as Scorolite are all the same thing, bought from three different suppliers. I use all three here.

From the bench

Seven link shapes, bent on the same jig as the necklace, then drilled with four holes each so every shape could be pinned to the one beside it. Twenty-eight holes in all, and each had to line up with its neighbor closely enough to pass a head pin straight through. That took three days of bench sessions before a single stone went in. I had planned six small clusters for the outer links and did not need them: two lavender keshi pearls sat perfectly into the flanking ovals, their luminescence mirroring the milky undertone in the pale amethysts.

Care

Pale amethyst is a 7 on the Mohs scale and wears well; a soft cloth keeps it bright. Keep the keshi pearls from perfume and lotion.

Kunzite Teardrop Earrings · Earrings

The stones

Kunzite, morganite, simple-cut aquamarine, lavender keshi freshwater pearls, Japanese Akoya keshi pearls, clear and opaque pink and purple sapphires, and two lavender quartz, set inside hand-formed 12-gauge 14k gold-filled teardrop frames.

From the bench

A matched pair is not two of the same earring. Because your ears frame your face, a pair is read as a mirrored set, so both clusters were built at the same time with each movement mirrored, making each one the other reversed rather than a copy. The cluster sits inside the open frame rather than hanging below it, so the stones float in the opening, which is the same structural idea as the Alpenglow necklace where fabricated link shapes frame the stones set into them.

Care

Kunzite fades in prolonged strong light. Store them away from a sunny windowsill.

Moonstone Marquis Oval Pendant Necklace · Necklace

The stones

Eight AAAA rainbow moonstone marquis cabochons with an electric blue flash, edging a hand-formed 12-gauge 14k gold-filled oval, with sky blue topaz, morganite, aquamarine, aqua hydro quartz, ametrine, marquis copper aquamarine, gray and pink and purple sapphires, and Japanese Akoya keshi pearls, on 14k gold-filled paperclip chain.

The sky blue topaz was left over from another collection and happened to reflect the same blue as the flash in the moonstones, which anchored the whole palette.

From the bench

Moonstone is cut as a smooth dome rather than faceted for three reasons, and all of them are really the same reason. A rounded surface works like a lens, letting light scatter across the layers inside the stone and glide, where facets break it into surface sparkle and mask the glow. Moonstone is feldspar with two directions of perfect cleavage, so a dome removes the edges most likely to chip. And most moonstone carries fine internal inclusions that a cabochon blends into the glow. I edged the oval with the marquis running up one side only, then added a graduated gemstone drop, which is not only decorative: an asymmetric pendant hangs crooked without counterweight, and the drop pulls it straight.

Care

Moonstone is softer than quartz and splits along its cleavage if struck. Put it on last, take it off first, and clean it with a soft cloth.

Pink Kunzite Double Chain Necklace · Necklace

The stones

A large smooth pink kunzite set into a folded 24k gold vermeil oval edged in pale amethyst, mystic labradorite and moonstone, with pink druzy, pink chalcedony, morganite, lavender quartz, rose quartz, pink and purple sapphires, a large flat aquamarine briolette and Japanese Akoya keshi pearls, on two elongated 14k gold-filled paperclip chains.

The last kunzite pendant I had, bought from my gem vendor Earthstone. There is not another one waiting.

From the bench

Kunzite is finished smooth rather than faceted because it has two directions of perfect cleavage and resists abrasion, so the pressure and friction of faceting risk splitting it. It is also pleochroic, showing different colors by viewing angle, and a dome blends those shifting pink and violet hues instead of locking them into rigid reflections. Look into this one and you can see growth and etch tubes running through the crystal like fine parallel needles, and healing feathers that read as faint veils. I wanted it hung between two chains rather than from one, which meant the stone needed two sides to attach to, so I folded a vermeil oval over a dowel to give it a left and a right.

Care

Kunzite fades with prolonged strong light. Wear it, then store it away from a sunny windowsill.

Pink Druzy Stiletto Earrings · Earrings

The stones

A single flat pink druzy at the bottom of each, on elongated 14k gold-filled paperclip chain with gold-filled posts. Four materials and nothing else.

The chain is the same elongated paperclip that runs down both sides of the Last Light necklace, and the druzy is the same pink druzy that appears in its cluster.

From the bench

The simplest piece in Second Light. An ear post soldered directly to chain, with one stone at the end. Everything around them in this collection is a cluster; these are a line and a stone. Druzy is a crust of tiny crystals grown across a stone's surface, which is why it reads as sugar or frost rather than as a polished face, and on a long clean drop it is the only place the light breaks.

Care

Druzy is delicate across its crystal surface. Keep it from hard knocks and store the pair on its own.

Single Wave Gemstone Bangle · Bracelet

The stones

Shield-cut and pear aquamarine, fancy-cut amethyst, lavender quartz, kunzite, morganite, pale amethyst, purple and clear and opaque pink sapphires, a Japanese Akoya pearl, a freshwater pearl, and two lavender keshi freshwater pearls, on a 10-gauge 14k gold-filled frame with a 14k gold-filled ball at each end.

The gemstone cluster was originally built for the oval frame of Blue Hour. It was too big for that frame and the proportions were wrong, and it was exactly right for the bangle.

From the bench

Sometimes you design in service of the collection itself. I had two bracelets in Second Light and both were cuffs, so the third needed to be more minimal and needed to not be a cuff. I formed a single wave on a jig, letting one side resolve slightly higher than the other so the curve came out asymmetric, then worked it on an anvil. Each end finishes in a gold-filled ball soldered down into a divot drilled into the wire itself, which took a few passes to sit level. One lavender keshi pearl reaches across the open span of the wave and anchors into the other side, holding the cluster and carrying the eye across the gap.

Care

Gold-filled wears for years. Keep it from perfume and lotion to hold the shine.