Moonstone Choker · Necklace

The stones

Rainbow moonstone marquise and briolettes, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) in a crown cut, aquamarine, morganite, purple, grey and pink sapphires, pink, grey and purple Herkimer diamonds, mystic quartz, and kunzite, resolving at a focal baroque Akoya pearl, all on a 14k gold-filled base.

The bullet-cut moonstones are carried over from my Femme Fatale collection; the crown-cut mixed beryl beads were new finds I designed the whole choker around.

From the bench

This choker began with rainbow moonstone marquise briolettes that stopped me with their glow, the aura, or adularescence, that comes from light scattering between microscopic layers inside the stone. I built the whole piece to let that light float around the neck: a 14k gold-filled base, a single luminous baroque pearl set at the front tip, and a gemstone cluster twirling up one side like a vine, left deliberately bare on the other for a modern architecture.

Care

Moonstone is a soft stone. Put it on last, take it off first, and keep it from hard knocks so its glow stays.

Moonstone Bullet Arch Earrings · Earrings

The stones

Bullet moonstone, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) in a crown cut, aquamarine briolettes, purple, grey and pink sapphires, Herkimer diamonds, and Akoya keshi pearls, on a 14k gold-filled arch.

From the bench

I make a matching pair for every necklace in a collection, so a set reads as one intentional look worn together or apart. Rather than parrot the choker, I fabricated a gilded 14k gold-filled arch to mirror it and built the cluster to follow the curve, soldering the post toward the center of the arch so each earring curves out along the lobe. A single moonstone bullet hangs at the bottom.

Care

Moonstone is soft. Put it on last and take it off first.

Gold Vermeil Oval Collar · Necklace

The stones

24k gold vermeil oval links, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) crown cut, aquamarine with blue and green topaz, purple, pink and grey sapphires, purple Herkimer diamonds, moonstone in three cuts, mystic labradorite, amethyst, and angel-wing baroque pearls.

The 24k gold vermeil ovals came from a fellow jeweler who retired her best-selling 'Feather Leathers' design and pivoted to engagement rings. I took a number of them off her hands for my one-of-a-kind work.

From the bench

I played with those vermeil ovals until a symmetrical collar emerged, anchored by a center cluster. I built the structure with sturdier stones first, then set the fragile crown-cut beryl individually. When the open ovals looked unfinished, I added baroque pearls shaped like angel wings to extend the cluster outward, then edged a repeating pattern of ovals in mystic labradorite, each framing a single gem.

Care

14k gold-filled and vermeil wear well every day; keep them from perfume and lotion to hold the shine.

Vermeil Oval Baroque Pearl Earrings · Earrings

The stones

A single 24k gold vermeil oval on each earring, edged in tiny purple Herkimer diamonds, with a baroque Akoya pearl suspended in the center.

From the bench

These are the mates to the vermeil oval collar. I edged each oval with tiny sparkling purple Herkimer diamonds and hung a single baroque Akoya pearl in the middle, echoing the detail in the necklace.

Care

Keep vermeil from perfume and lotion so the gold stays bright.

Pearl Chain Lariat · Necklace

The stones

Hand-bailed grey pearl chain, large blue topaz nuggets, aquamarine, moonstone, Australian opal and opal rondelles, lavender quartz, chalcedony, spinel, and purple, grey and pink sapphires, with a 24k gold vermeil oval at the center.

The hand-bailed pearl chain, light grey with a subtle rainbow iridescence, came from the Tucson gem show, the length left over from Fairy Dynamite.

From the bench

This lariat threads through a vermeil oval, with a gemstone cluster integrated to anchor the pearl chain and loop it back through. Once assembled the center hung funny and needed weight to sit straight, so I added two large blue topaz and an aquamarine nugget down the drop, each capped with a single pearl cut from the chain. That unexpected weight was exactly the wow the piece needed.

Care

Pearls are soft. Wipe with a dry cloth, and keep them from perfume and hairspray.

Long Lariat Earrings · Earrings

The stones

The same hand-bailed grey pearl chain as the lariat, with a small crown-cut aquamarine drop, on 14k gold-filled ear wires.

From the bench

The mate to the lariat, kept simple so it echoes the long opera length without competing. A small aquamarine drop accents the minimal design.

Care

Pearls are soft; keep them from perfume and store them apart.

Necklace

The stones

Large simple-cut blue topaz, stacked geometric Australian opal briolettes and opal rondelles, aquamarine in many cuts, fancy-cut and lavender amethyst, moonstone, mystic labradorite, spinel, purple, grey and pink sapphires, and a keshi Akoya pearl, on 24k gold vermeil components and organic pearl chains.

From the bench

The cluster of blue topaz and stacked Australian opals was made for an ear cuff in my last release, too chunky for that frame, so it sat on my desk until it found a home here. The organic pearl chains matched the river-rock structure of the opals and became the inspiration. When the chains felt too heavy I added a gold circle link to bring airiness back, what I call a 'Marilyn,' a single element that breaks the expected.

Care

Opal is delicate and sensitive to moisture loss. Keep it from knocks and heat, and wear it often.

Earrings

The stones

Australian opals, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) crown cut, a teardrop aquamarine anchor, and pearls from the hand-bailed chain, on 14k gold-filled ear wires.

From the bench

The mates to Fairy Dynamite, using the same stacked clustering and pearls from the hand-bailed chain. A teardrop aquamarine anchors each earring for a finished look.

Care

Opal is delicate; keep it from hard knocks and sudden temperature changes.

Green Amethyst Triple Strand · Necklace

The stones

A long simple-cut green amethyst focal with flat green amethyst briolettes, mixed beryl (aquamarine, morganite, heliodor) crown cut, aquamarine, purple, grey and green sapphires, green topaz, moonstone, and mystic quartz, on 14k gold-filled ovals and chains.

From the bench

This followed the green amethyst hoops, made to use the square 14k gold-filled wire left from the earrings. I fabricated three long ovals, the longest as the drop pendant framing a long green amethyst, the other two flanking the cluster, then ran it on labradorite enamel chain paired with a slightly heavier chain so the three read almost as one. More minimal than the rest of the collection, easy from casual to cocktail hour.

Care

Green amethyst wears well every day; a soft cloth keeps it bright.

Green Amethyst Hoops · Earrings

The stones

A long green amethyst set down the center of each cluster, on hand-fabricated caged 14k gold-filled hoops.

The thin square wire was bought for a production line I ghost-designed for another brand. When that designer took production in-house, I was left with the raw material and gave it a home in my own work.

From the bench

I soldered long ovals and circles into a caged, geometric hoop base, careful that each earring came out identical, then threaded and soldered two large hoops through the base so they read as one. Small mirrored clusters sit on each, a long green amethyst down the center. I wear my designs out to test them, and these turn heads every time.

Care

Green amethyst is durable; store the hoops apart so the polish stays.

Amethyst Stalactite Heavy-Chain · Necklace

The stones

A horizontal amethyst stalactite geode slice with a flat teardrop moss aquamarine drop and a cluster of coordinating pastel gemstones echoing the slice, on a large-link 14k gold-filled chain with a toggle clasp.

The stalactite slices came from the Tucson gem show years ago, on a day I had exhausted my budget and saw them on my way out. I had never seen anything like them and bought a strand; most sat in my drawer until this collection.

From the bench

Amethyst stalactite slices form over millions of years from volcanic activity, banded agate at the core surrounded by radiating purple crystal. I oriented this one horizontally as a bar, wired a 24k gold vermeil structure in place, and built a cluster that seems to grow out of the raw crystal edges, resolving at a single moss aquamarine drop.

Care

The stalactite is a natural slice; keep it from hard knocks. A soft cloth is all it needs.

Amethyst Stalactite Multi-Chain · Necklace

The stones

A down-angled amethyst stalactite slice, green amethyst rectangular drops, mystic labradorite, and a cascading pastel gemstone cluster, on three rows of chevron 14k gold-filled chain.

From the bench

I angled this stalactite downward for variety and set it into folded 24k vermeil circles held by a web of gold-filled wirework. Three rows of chevron chain read as one thick band and waterfall into a triple drop below the pendant. I first anchored the drops in green rutilated stone, found the color too oppressive, and switched to green amethyst that belonged with the softer palette.

Care

Keep the stalactite from knocks; wipe gently with a soft cloth.

Amethyst Stalactite Cuff · Bracelet

The stones

A smaller amethyst stalactite slice, light purple amethyst shield cuts, and two large grey moonstones and two light amethysts framing the cluster, on a hand-fabricated heavy-gauge cuff.

From the bench

My last and smallest stalactite became a cuff instead of a necklace. I fabricated a heavy-gauge frame with a wide, rounded opening for easy wear, set the slice with the same folded-vermeil wire-matrix technique, and let purple amethyst shield cuts jet out to mirror the raw crystal edges. Four large stones threaded through the cuff frame the piece so it reads as one story.

Care

The cuff is sturdy, but the stalactite is natural stone; avoid hard knocks.